Jeff and Annie Main: Good Humus
Produce 1976
During a meeting in the organization and creation of the Davis Food
Coop Martin Barnes and Henry Esbenshade asked who would like to help
start a Farmers Market in town. Thus began the ground work for the
Davis Farmers Market. Martin Barnes, Henry Esbenshade, Jeff and
Annie Main opened the market in 1976. In that same year they also
decided to go into partnership together along with Kathy Barsotti,
Martin’s wife and began farming vegetables and the start of Good
Humus Produce. The name came from the Good Humor Man...good humor,
good humus is what makes a good farm!
Good Humus started with ¾ of an acre of fall vegetables in Woodland,
the next year moved their large garden and farmed 3 acres of
produce. The third year they together farmed 10 acres of vegetables,
1 acre of boysenberries in Woodland and 10 acres of apricots in
Winters. At the end of the third year Good Humus split into three
separate farms. Henry Esbenshade farmed in Winters as Esbenshade
Orchards, Martin and Kathy began their farm in Capay known today by
three names:
Capay Fruits and Vegetables, Capay Organics and Farm Fresh To You.
Meanwhile, Jeff and Annie Main kept farming in
Woodland under the Good Humus name.
I would like to tell you a story a story of the organic
movement here in Yolo County…..
A long time ago, there was a social movement. Some know it as the
Sixties. I think of it as the Back-to-the-Land movement—our
awakening to our impact on the physical world and to our
responsibility as caretakers. America was getting shaken up by young
baby boomers who were asking their parents many questions that were
not expected from the supposedly “seen but not heard” child.
It was an exciting time. We felt like we could make a
difference, that we had the power to change the world with the
collective passion of the movement. It was the time when cooperative
coed housing and cooperative buying clubs were popping up. We were
buying food together for bulk discounts, with “food for people not
for profit” as our mantra. There were only a few farmers’ markets in
the entire state of California. We thought if we were going to go
back to the land and become self-sufficient communities, it made
sense to bring back the central town marketplace, where we could buy
and sell our daily food. So farmers’ markets started to sprout
slowly, too. Only a few very old and very young farmers would show
up—five or so each Saturday morning. But it was a good thing, and
the communities and farmers saw the benefits, as did the buying
clubs which were turning into co-op stores. With the help of Rachel
Carson’s Silent Spring, the organic movement surfaced at the same
time. Some of those old-timers at the market started showing the
young farmers how to grow the old way, because they knew. They were
around before World War
II and farmed before the chemical invasion. Looking back I think of
Dorothy and Toto on the Yellow Brick Road, taking the path to see a
different world. Now I see that we actually were part of a movement
that was building the yellow road, using the passion for change as
the base, and the energy and optimism of youth to create an organic
movement and to build our organic farm from the ground up.
Brick by brick, more bricks for the road, and there grew more
organic farms in the Valley. There grew new organic markets around
the state, smaller organic stores. Women found their place at the
produce terminal. Veritable Vegetable, the largest organic
wholesaler house in San Francisco, was all women! Organizations
supporting
the organic movement arose, student farms at U.C. Davis and U.C.
Santa Cruz became stronger. The trucks started to roll, hauling that
“holey” organic produce to market, where it stood on its own in a
little space alongside conventional produce. Our foot was in the
door and folks liked what they saw. Brick by brick, onward grew the
yellow road.
Community Supported Agriculture
A
Japanese concept to buy clean food direct from the farmer—grew into
the CSA movement in the nineties in California. People found food
delivered to their neighborhood and a personal letter from “their”
farmer. The relationship became
tighter, more intimate, with the families and the farmer both
getting fed more than just produce. It was soul feeding! The farmer
became bolder and bolder in those letters, finding a place to write
about the daily life in the fields, trying to tell
“their” families what it takes to get the food to their dinner
plates. The organic farms in the Capay Valley are now delivering thousands of
“veggie” boxes to Yolo County residents, and on into Sacramento, San
Francisco, and the surrounding counties.
Building a New Food System
Many folks have written about sustainable organic agriculture over
the years, making heads turn and hearts pound with emotion, adding
to the Yellow Brick Road. At this moment, journalist Michael Pollan
has become a world-famous food detective, exposing what goes on
behind closed doors in the meat-processing houses. This is having a
huge effect on our massive road-paving project. Michael’s ultimate
wisdom for us is to make sure what we eat is something our
grandmothers would recognize. Buy it fresh, buy it local, and know
where it comes from. What better advice is there?
What better “diet” could we choose? It eliminates the fast foods,
the processed foods, the fatty foods, the sugary foods. This could
be the very simple answer to the American heart problem and the
diabetes that is soaring in today’s children.
Now people are frequenting the farmers’ markets, asking vendors
where their farms are, wanting to eat within 100 miles of home,
working hard to understand what they can do to be a part of the
local food movement. The passion is rising, each person a golden
brick. The change is being made by each of us in the simple act of
where we buy our food, who and what we support. Buying food has
become a radical choice, a very political act that can change the
world one meal at a time. We are now realizing the wealth of our
local food system, the importance that it can play in our lives. Can
we be sure it will be there next year? Will there be a new
generation of farmers for our children? Can we depend on the farmers
to keep farming in Yolo County, on some of the best, richest soil in
the world? Experts are
telling us that our food will be coming from someplace besides home,
they say agriculture will disappear from the American
portfolio because it is not economically sustainable, but some
small parts of the industry will survive…. The main entries on that
list include golf courses, nurseries and turf farms…and Americans
will never notice as
the percentage of their food that is imported rises to 100 percent.
Well, farming is not sustainable in today’s economic market. If a
want-to-be farmer tries to go out and buy farmland, build a
farm and a life, and pay the mortgage from farming alone, farming is
not sustainable. As it becomes more difficult for the city dweller
to purchase a house, it becomes impossible for the farmer to
purchase land and build the infrastructure to farm.
Who will Raise Our Children’s
Food?
What does all this mean for the concerned, turn-over-a-new-leaf
person who wants to shop fresh and local? It means that it may be a
longer Yellow Brick Road than we first imagined. Young farmers are
not able to buy land in Yolo County to start their farm for you.
They are moving to places where the prices are “cheaper.” But in
reality, there isn’t
much number-one soil around for cheap, anywhere. Development—be it
golf courses or large rural estates—means agricultural land is not
to be owned and worked by the hands of the farmer who wants to be
the caretaker of the land and food producer for the people. Do we
believe this is our fate? Do we leave these questions to the whims
of society and
hope for the best? With the recognition of the possibilities of
passion and change, the strength of the empowered individual
and the collective community—I believe the Yellow Brick Road is ours
to build, and that we can set the path’s destination to the
landscape we want to live in. As this movement has been building,
there has also been a new concept
of organic agriculture as a “sustainable” agriculture. The
definition is still being worked out, but I see it meaning
that all aspects of the farm will be maintained and the vitality of
the farm will be upheld and improved from generation to
generation—building soil health and native habitat for biodiversity,
to create a balance for healthy crop
production. Sustainable agriculture must also include the life of
the caretakers and their ability to do the work that creates the
possibility of continuation without depletion. It must include a
basic level of land security for each generation. The work of the
farm operators must leave room for personal and spiritual growth. It
cannot be so constant that it is deadening. The farms need a solid
labor force that is healthy and not deadened by the work or living
conditions. All the workers need job appreciation and family
stability.
Planning for the Long Term
We are now coming to the understanding that sustainability means we
need to think beyond one generation. We all need our family farms to
be passed on to young farmers. We need farmers to strengthen their
farm’s infrastructure, to build soil fertility and use restorative
farming practices to return balance to our eco-systems. Farming
must therefore be made affordable and desirable for farmers. For the
community, the benefits of preserving our local agriculture will
stretch out over many generations of farmers. Land and food are
resources that belong to all generations. The community is
essential in securing the future of local land and farm resources
and food production.
Securing farms as a component of an innovative local food system
requires the financial support of the community. We hope to also
inspire you to see the long view. We ask for your personal
commitment to a vision that engages our community in locally
supported food and farm security for generations to come.
The People Who Started It All